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I think it's whatever floats people's boats. I think golfers are mad, but golfers don't.

Why do you want all that Power? You can't use it. Mass low down makes it safer. Reverse can be an Electric Motor. How far do you go in reverse? Blip that engine and you will tip the bike up sideways Nev

A few random thoughts on engines. As mentioned previously, with a plot like this, not much construction happens until an engine is decided on and sorted. About all that can happen until that point is sorting out some parts and more plotting. There's two logical choices, a bike engine or a car engine, and above all, something with a V configuration (that's not Japanese). So that's the basic parameters. None of the engines I have here are suitable. With my own restrictions preventing the use of any old engine, sorting out a motor will be the highest cost component. A Harley engine would be nice, but fairly expensive. You could probably buy a unit Sportster motor for the price of just the bare motor in a big twin, but getting a cheap and practical reverse gear setup on a Sportster engine is problematic. A fairly simple job on the later big twin gearboxes, but a bit of money involved in buying an engine plus gearbox in reasonable condition. Then there's car motors, the main issue being what will fit. You see some rat bikes with huge car engines that require a really high custom fuel tank, or fuel tanks located somewhere other than above the engine, bike style. I'd much prefer to have a more traditional style of bike tank over the motor. That brings up the issue of total height from ground clearance to where it will fit under a fuel tank. That makes it hard for carburettor motors. I think even a short block engine like a 253 would be getting too high with carburettor and air cleaner. Some people custom build tanks that have a big hollow to take that and even have intakes poking out the top of the tank. But I'd really like to use my 5 gallon Fat Bob tank rather than a custom. I've also figured out the Buick 3800 has too much bulk above the rocker boxes to practically fit. One motor I like for a lot of reasons is the GM LS1 engine. For a 5.7 litre engine, it's very compact and only about 500mm wide. They have a cast ali sump pan that's not tall, as well as being strong. On the opposite end, the EFI intake is very low profile and saves a lot of height compared to most other comparable V8s or V6s. They are also light with an ali block and heads, and combined with their efficient water jacket design, you can get away with a smaller radiator than the iron V8s. A pushrod motor, so a cam upgrade is relatively cheap and easy. Wth the lifter guides, no need to remove heads and manifolds to swap cams. A strong motor with a skirted block, 6 bolt mains, and rods and crank in standard form are good to 700HP, so they're very popular with rodders and the like. Roller rockers as standard on a rocker cradle, beehive springs, separate valley plate, a coil for each plug and lots of other good design features. The stock exhaust manifolds are close to extractors in flow. As per the attached photo, the compactness of the engine can be seen.

Nev - Nothing new about nepotism in politics, and private industry is worse.

Unless some thing effective is done about it, it will only get worse. Nev

The worst I've seen on FB is the fake story and photo about Pauline Hanson collapsing in Parliament. The scum producing this stuff really should be hunted down and exposed - and Zuckerberg and his company assist in promoting the rubbish, thus placing him, and Meta, and the scammers, all in the same information sewerage tank.

Trailers develop places where a Wire can have the Insulation rubbed through.. Some trailer wiring is shoddy. You also may have a FAULTY RELAY, The original fuse may not be big enough to carry the extra stop Lights current draw. Nev

In my experience, the only fuses that fail for no reason, are the glass tube ones. Never had a modern moulded plastic type fail without real overload. Twice I have had difficult to track down overloads in vehicles, caused by unsecured wiring that vibrated or moved against bodywork. One made my headlights (only rarely, but that was too often) go out on left hand corners. The other made the engine fail, but only on right hand corners when accelerating hard. In that case the engine loom moved a certain way that it rubbed on the firewall. Intermittents are the worst to fix. Do not start fitting bigger fuses unless you wish to replace an entire loom or deal with a fire when the fault returns.

They're the plastic fuses with two exposed prongs. I guess I'll have to wait and see if it blows again, and if so, start trying to track the issue. I was coming back down the highway on Sunday night, about an hours drive, and had to keep checking my speed with the torch.

Willie, if the fuse blew, the circuit has been overloaded. You don't mention the style of fuse (there are several). I'm speaking about the old glass fuses, now. If the fuse fell apart, or the ends fell off, I would put that down to age. However, the ends don't normally fall off, because they're held by the clips, they usually fall off when you pull them out. You can get intermittent electrical faults that are a PIA. A little patch of bare wire touching metal occasionally. A wire being occasionally crushed between other parts that move. It can be a real pain to track down a lot of the time. Look for areas where movement takes place, where things can be hit (taillights are often hit by road debris), or where moisture has crept in.