midget acquired

[spenaroo]

Ive been talking with my old man about downsizing our toy collections...
he has a Vstrom that will shortly be for sale and I have a couple of Jet-skis that arent getting used.

so we decided to go halves in a new toy.
been a while since either of us have had a fun car, and the Adelaide hills and Riverland are great for a Sunday drive.
been sending each other sales ads for a while...
I regret selling my MX5, but they are going for silly prices at the moment. Porsche Boxster's are now cheap enough that they are the same money as a good MX5...
Mokes and VW kit cars (Purvis Eureka) are now silly prices too.

but this appeared on Facebook marketplace for sub 10k,
and after both going for a look we decided that I should drive it home.

Absolutely hilarious fun living out my Steve Mcqueen fantasies.
needs a bit of work with the carbies requiring a rebuild and just general age related items.
the dollar per smile value is pretty unbeatable in the current market - admittedly the fact its a 1977 rubber nose 1500 model helps that (the least sought after)

if anyone has tips for SU's I'm all ears. bit nervous tackling them as the first job.
Im used to modern Mikuni/Keihn carbs on motorcycle's.


 

[pmccarthy]

I have had a few SU cars, have one with twin SUs at present, and I found plenty of advice on line. Parts all seem to be available. I am no good at tuning the twins though and need to find someone to do it.

[spenaroo]

yep this has the twin SU's
have a rebuild kit on the way

It was running awesome for 2 weeks, then went to start it one day after sitting for a week and it would just bog down under load.

but revved fine in neutral.
had it booked in at my local vintage car specialist (3 doors up from work) the next day anyway for a service.

 

they checked their suspicions about the choke not turning off, fouled plugs, blocked air filter etc... but didn't have an answer

Basically they said the carb is leaking fuel and needs a rebuild, and the distributor is worn.
wasn't worth them trying to tune/investigate further until I had sorted those out.

they gave me a nice list of things to address, with the suggested approach that I do what I can then book in with them for anything left over

Edited June 5, 2023 by spenaroo

[facthunter]

That motor has siamesed ports which makes good tuning more needed. Centre the Jet to the needle on an SU and stop any fuel leaks The's oil in the top of the dashpot as well to make the mixture richer on acceleration.. Thers a little thing you press up to raise the dashpot  at idle and it should rev slightly briefly but then go a little Lean if the mixture is right. The distributor has to be spot on with the advance  for the motor to want to accelerate. Check the tappets and compression before anything else. They need a special oil to look after the cams and followers. Have fun They can blow the head gasket between the middle cylinders as there's 2 exhaust valves near each other there and don't  rev the thing.. too much.  Nev

[spenaroo]

so update,

been a mixture of fun when running, but long periods parked broken.

 

had the distributor and diff straps replaced. along with a brake service. and swapping to hotter plugs.
was still less then ideal, but was drivable for a month or two.

then just before Christmas it fouled the plugs and ran like it was about to die.

so back the mechanic it went to get the Carbs done (they were waiting on some cleaning machinery)

anyway they got it back together and running... but I asked for a fuel filter to be fitted inline before the carbs.
thinking some of the rough running was from a dirty/rusty fuel tank.

well this had another effect and instead showed us that the fuel pump was very week.
so while it was rich at idle, it was starving higher in the rev range. (also showed how poorly bodged together the previous owner did things. sitting loose with wiring that was less then ideal - like being wired to the coil instead of the ignition)

hopefully should get it back tomorrow - be interested to see if she's more responsive with the rebuilt carb and new pump.


Bonus: 

found out the cars history in Australia through the local sprite club.

its one of only 4 rubber bumpers in Adelaide so got plenty of attention at the club's show and shine.

the prior owner to the person I purchased it from picked it up from an elderly gentleman as a spare car - was too good to use as the intended parts donor.
drove it for a year or so until the engine broke a timing gear. then sold it not running.

Edited January 24 by spenaroo

[Litespeed]

I assume the 1500 is still the old A series engine?

 

I thought they only went to 1275cc ?

 

As an aside if it is a A series, then you can double the power and triple the reliability and have more revs as well.

 

The solution is a BMW K series 1200 head, they basically for straight on and use a chain drive off the crank to the 16 valve head. These heads are legendary for toughness and huge distances.

 

Lots of modded minis had this done.

Results in 120 HP. Minimum and includes great fuel injection.

 

They suit very well as not bike like in extreme revs etc and huge torque at low/med revs.

 

Better economy, huge power and dead reliable.

 

Just a thought.

[Litespeed]

Correction it uses a belt drive in some conversations.

 

 

1100 head with 1293cc is big torque and 127 HP at 7000rpm.

 

As yours in rwd the conversion is easier.

[Litespeed]

 

 

This is one of many conversions, lots of different ways to the similar result.

 

Caution they are American so make it seem they are geniuses to make it work.

 

Edited January 24 by Litespeed

[spenaroo]

12 hours ago, Litespeed said:

I assume the 1500 is still the old A series engine?

 

I thought they only went to 1275cc ?

 

As an aside if it is a A series, then you can double the power and triple the reliability and have more revs as well.

 

The solution is a BMW K series 1200 head, they basically for straight on and use a chain drive off the crank to the 16 valve head. These heads are legendary for toughness and huge distances.

 

Lots of modded minis had this done.

Results in 120 HP. Minimum and includes great fuel injection.

 

They suit very well as not bike like in extreme revs etc and huge torque at low/med revs.

 

Better economy, huge power and dead reliable.

 

Just a thought.

nah,

 

the 1500 is the engine and gearbox from a triumph spitfire.
its basically mirrored (intake and exhaust on the opposite side)
 

has more torque then the 1275. but doesn't like to rev.
the crankshaft is the weak spot in the motors, they are known to flex
(that and thrust bearings dropping out when worn)
 

those who race prefer the A series engines.
because they have much better support, and also can be made to rev

Edited January 24 by spenaroo

[facthunter]

 The conrods are too heavy. Rev them and you'll do a big end bearing. Wild cams on siamesed  ported heads  and it will never run any good. You need 8 ports. with much valve overlap. Nev

[Litespeed]

Bigger, that's bad news.

 

Would you consider a engine swap to solve it all in one hit?

[facthunter]

Maybe if you want to enjoy it at freeway speeds. You'll need to change the diff ratio too and get a five speed box. get a Lotus super 7 or an elfin  Clubman  or a Caterham. Your's is worth more as original.   I've rebuilt a lot of those A series motors. They need a good oil to give them a chance. Should be plenty of parts around that can be used. for the standard arrangement out of Mokes etc Head & top end.    Nev

[spenaroo]

well that turned expensive....

was meant to go in, get the carbys rebuilt. and come out the same day...

stayed for almost two weeks.

turned out that the carbys weren't getting enough fuel, despite flooding at idle.

so new fuel pump (where it was discovered the old one was wired into the the coil)
then the new pump wasn't sucking - so new fuel lines.

still not running right, further inspection found the new distributor had play - so another new one put in.

new choke cable and she is back in my hands,

 

was running okay last night so took her to a meeting..... that unfortunately dragged on for much, much longer then expected.

.... was Dark when I left, and trying to find all the switches and choke with no light - completely forgot about the handbrake and drove home with it on,
could smell the rear drums burning when I parked. and also burning hot to touch.
so upset with myself - worrying I've damaged something

Edited February 5 by spenaroo

[facthunter]

Check the bits that got hot. Drums for cracking and rear seals as well as Brake linings and hydraulic cylinders. It may not have got as hot as you fear. Nev

[pmccarthy]

Welcome to the perpetual maintenance club. Yesterday's effort on the Triumph suspension proved that red is not always better.

[spenaroo]

3 hours ago, facthunter said:

Check the bits that got hot. Drums for cracking and rear seals as well as Brake linings and hydraulic cylinders. It may not have got as hot as you fear. Nev

I hope so,

part of the reason I forgot the park brake is because it was rolling back when I got in it.
it needs the rear brakes replaced anyway (faulty adjuster and glazed) was just trying to get a bit of use before I did it.

left the brake off last night - I know applying the handbrake on hot discs while they cool can warp them.
wasn't sure if it was the same with drums

Edited February 6 by spenaroo

[facthunter]

Not as critical as discs. Don't remove any more metal than you have to. They get weak. It's easy to check they are on centre. Just apply a bit of brake and rotate the wheel. and see how evenly it turns Remove the unworn lip  carefully with an angle grinder. to make putting the drums on easier.  Nev

[spenaroo]

Ill take it for a drive later and see how it feels.

$500 for a set of brakes all around (disc and pads front, drums and shoes rear). ill replace them in a month or two once I've moved and got a shed.

needed replacing anyway - had them adjusted when it was last in, and the mechanic reported glazing and adjuster screws faulty
 

Edited February 6 by spenaroo

[Litespeed]

Those red suspension bushes look like they collapsed from lack of lubrication.

 

They all need the special grease supplied in the kit to be used. Lube the inner and outer surfaces and ensure the contact points on the suspension are smooth.

 

Have seen this before.

[pmccarthy]

The new ones were black, no lubricant supplied.nor mentioned in the Haynes manual.

Edited February 6 by pmccarthy

[onetrack]

I've cast my own urethane bushes, was pleased with the result, and put them aside to be used on the project when I had other parts ready. However, when I rechecked them after about 12 mths, the urethane had decayed to the point where I could tear the bushes apart with my hands, they just fell to pieces.

I was most upset after all the work I put into acquiring all the chemical components, making silicone molds, casting them, and cleaning them up.

I don't know what I did wrong, possibly some error in the chemical mix (although I followed the instructions precisely), and the exercise has made me wary of using urethane for flexible bushings from here on in.

[Litespeed]

I have replaced every normal bush in may euro cars with them and had no issues at all.

 

They were a famous brand and came with the grease and implicit instructions it must be used.

 

Handling was also greatly improved.

[spenaroo]

Yeah, whenever I have looked into it, there has always been mention of the special blue grease that must be applied.
quick google shows the same 

[spenaroo]

so a bit of work has been done.

for some reason the coolant temperature gauge stopped working.

its a combination gauge with the oil pressure and about $500 to replace.

its also a gas filled sensor that is attached to the gauge in one piece

so my solution was to by another mechanical gauge and put it where the clock was.

leaving the original to keep reading the oil pressure.

 

the mechanic had advised a coolant flush was needed... and the coolant that flowed out when I swapped the sensors was a concerning dirty water look.
so that was the next job. figured I would do thermostat too as it was taking a bit of time to warm up and was sitting around 70 degrees - thought it may have had the thermostat removed

 

off to supercheap and grabbed the cheapest $20 coolant - 1st time the clerk had actually had a customer, where that was the correct coolant for the car.
well ill let the picture do the talking. 

 

 

much worse then expected, glad I did it now instead of waiting till winter. hopefully prevents further corrosion

 

all running nice now, warms up a little quicker and is now sitting in the 75-80 degree mark. (turned out it had the same 77 degree thermostat in it, but replaced it with the new one anyway)

Edited February 19 by spenaroo

[facthunter]

There's a hard to get at bypass hose at the front. Check it as it gets oil on it.. It's dead easy to take the head off and hose everything out. I'd be surprised it the gasket was good between the middle cylinders and the head face is still flat. Easy to get it faced.  Nev