midget acquired

[spenaroo]

had a leaakdown test done last week as part of the carby drama,

the rear cylinder is lower then the rest, I suspect its valves.
story is the pitons and rings were done with the bottom end. but he just slapped the head on to sell it.
(I found the owner previous to the guy who I got it from, and he sold it with the engine not running with a broken timing gear)

hopefully the crud is from the radiator...

which opens up more questions. there is one place this car has rust. the front valance and bumper mounts.
but here is where it gets interesting.
normally they look like this:

mine has been changer to this:

 

Edited February 19 by spenaroo

[facthunter]

I think it has a timing CHAIN. What is the HOT idling oil pressure like? Maybe pick up a better head (Good exhaust seats). There might be new ones out there. Check the tappet clearances and keep driving it for a while. Needs a good oil for the camshaft and followers. Thick with friction modifiers.  Nev. 

[spenaroo]

your right it does have a chain. just remember him telling me it had a broken tooth.

 

its also had the mechanical fuel pump taken off and a block-off plate fitted - so could have a different cam in it (one reason to do that)

idling hot oil pressure is 40psi, which seems normal on the midget 1500 Facebook page.

cold start the oil level is 60-80psi. it does burn oil. normally top it up 250-500ml every half tank or so.

using the Penrite classic light oil (20w60)- as it has the zinc additives, little thicker then the 20w50 originally spec'd

Edited February 19 by spenaroo

[facthunter]

That oil pressure is fine. . Oil could be getting down your valve guides. if the head's ordinary..   Nev  .

[spenaroo]

yeah, I think its at a point now where I can drive it for a while,

enjoy it and then when she starts smoking or the oil turns to milkshake ill get the head rebuilt.

still not sure whether or not to use lead additive. I throw it in anyway just to be safe.

but have been told that it should be fine without if running on 98. 

 

still need to figure out what to do about the front end.

originally was going to de-bumper it. but now I've found the "custom" valance I'm thinking fiberglass Sebring style front end

Edited February 19 by spenaroo

[facthunter]

The exhaust seats never lasted that long in those motors anyhow and the  seat faces are wide originally to help cool the valves. The middle two cylinders have a siamesed exhaust port so two exhaust valves are in close proximity. Never use a WILD cam in these motors or they run awfully at some part of the rev range..  If you could get AVGAS  cheap it would help the seats. A lot of race cars ran it at the time.  Nev

[spenaroo]

had to move the car out of the driveway and on to the lawn to access the backyard on the weekend.

 

 

 

well my father, who co-owns it with me was sitting in the couch resting afterwards and we were talking about an oil leak and other maintenance I am doing on it.
he then suggested we take off the bumpers while he was here...

4 bolts and some blood later.

so much nicer looking, so another 4 bolts for the rear.


Unfortunately it confirmed my suspicion>

not the left and right front fenders are different with the indicator mount under the headlight.

looks like at some point its had a smash in the front LHS and been repaired with an earlier mk3 fender
 

so now to build....
grill, rear license plate mount, indicator brackets
and figure out what Im doing below the tail lights

[facthunter]

HAs it got any  rust?  Nev

[facthunter]

I think the front seal is hard felt aided by a slinger. The timing chain tensioner is an "O" ring on the camshaft sprocket.   Nev

[spenaroo]

58 minutes ago, facthunter said:

HAs it got any  rust?  Nev

yes,

the front LH bumper mount where it protrudes through the "grill"

and the bottom of the lower valance (under the grill) section where it meets the LHS fender.

suspect that these were damaged in an impact with the paint lifted but not properly prepped and repainted

Edited June 12 by spenaroo

[facthunter]

You are IN a rusty area?  Dead clean and a zinc based paint internally as well.  Protect wheel arches with bitumen based thicker coat on top of the Zinc. or Fish oil if you cant do much else. Remove mud and dust inside the channels.  Nev

[spenaroo]

plan is to cut the areas out at some point.
the mount will be removed completely, to recess the grill to where it is on the older cars.
and return to the  proper valance on it, not this home made thing that is currently on it.

 

but those are both long term projects. once the shed gets built

 

for now it will be home made mesh grill, with a black spray can of kill rust to the valance

[facthunter]

Don't leave it in the open if you can avoid it.  Nev

[spenaroo]

So did a ton of work over the weekend. Made myself a new grill thanks to Bunnings automotive 

 

 

[spenaroo]

More work this weekend

 

topped up the rear diff after noticing a leak....

took about 800 ml... its a 1.1L capacity.
checked the transmission and that also took almost the same amount.

 

drove it Sunday afternoon up through the hills.

feeling properly sporty now. smooth and tight with the engine and steering response.

really notice the difference in weight from removing the bumper (almost 40kg each)

the suspension is now stiffer and doesn't wallow. no longer worried about under-steer or po-going from hitting bumps

 

[facthunter]

You really don't want to run things  with oil levels that low. Nev

[spenaroo]

59 minutes ago, facthunter said:

You really don't want to run things  with oil levels that low. Nev

yeah, it certainly had me frustrated and worrying.
especially the transmission, checked it on a whim after the diff - just felt nervous.
the diff leak wasn't big, just enough to notice the residue on the driveway.

 

I check the engine oil before every start like a pre-flight

it has been in and out of mechanics for 12 months and never picked up on.

so I don't know how long they have been low for, and if any damage was done

I now have drip trays under the trans and diff to check before each drive

Edited June 24 by spenaroo

[pmccarthy]

I just changed the engine and gearbox oils in my 1949 classic to fully synthetic. The engine now on 5-50 gets pressure up much quicker and has a much more stable pressure when driving. I did a lot of research before making the change. The gearbox should change smoother on synthetic but I haven't noticed any difference.

[spenaroo]

I still run mineral, specifically a classic oil that has a high zinc formula.

[pmccarthy]

That’s what I was doing, high zinc. But my engine was fully rebuilt only a couple of thousand miles ago, so the synthetic is OK.

[Litespeed]

Can you still get BP Corse 50+ oil?

 

That's what I used in my old Alfas, they had a huge 6.6 litre sump for a 2 litre engine and used oil by design not leakage. Oil changes always cost a bomb as two containers needed.

[spenaroo]

I am Using Penrite classic light,

its a 20w60, so a bit heavier then the 20w50 specified,

but I find it doesn't burn as much and keeps good pressure

[nomadpete]

8 hours ago, spenaroo said:

I am Using Penrite classic light,

its a 20w60, so a bit heavier then the 20w50 specified,

but I find it doesn't burn as much and keeps good pressure

You know your engine is worn when you start topping it up with EP90 to slow down the oil consumption.

[Litespeed]

Spenaroo,

 

Have you noticed much difference in handling, steering and performance since losing the anchor weight bumpers?

 

 

[spenaroo]

9 hours ago, Litespeed said:

Spenaroo,

 

Have you noticed much difference in handling, steering and performance since losing the anchor weight bumpers?

 

 

big difference,

mostly feels much more planted and stable through the corners.

biggest difference is that its not upset by bumps - previously it would bounce a but when it hit a bump.

now it feels stiffer and just absorbs the bump

Unfortunately I found the reason the Diff oil was so empty last night

Edited June 26 by spenaroo