Blatant rip-off

[spacesailor]

It will still need a " engineering report " after purchase .

Were do you get one from .

I'm thinking of buying a cheap car . None go'er . Unregistered for years .deceased estate .

Will have to go over the pit's , for some registration thing .

Were is that pit  ,  in my cheap car plan .

Is it similar to Raa's " HummelBird " rego , in need of , bigger weightless wings.

spacesailor

 

 

[spenaroo]

10 hours ago, spacesailor said:

It will still need a " engineering report " after purchase .

Were do you get one from

 

 

https://www.transport.nsw.gov.au/operations/roads-and-waterways/business-and-industry/vehicle-examiners-certifiers-assessors/vehicle

 

Look they give you a list - though i would suggest talking to one before a purchase...

normally there is a good reason it was never registered.....

so many people build custom projects and get to the end before certification.

only then finding out its illegal to modify the frame in any way and it will never get put on the road.

Used to see it all the time in the bike industry. sucks telling it to the guy that just forked out the dollars for his new pride and joy - only to be told its basically scrap metal

Edited March 27 by spenaroo

[old man emu]

The only way to get around the ADRs is to buy a vehicle that was produced prior to the introduction of ADRs. When a vehicle is first used on an Australian road, the relevant state or territory government legislation generally requires that it complies with the relevant ADRs as at the time of manufacture. The First Edition ADRs were only distributed for discussion and were not adopted as a legally binding set of standards under either national or state/territory law. The Second Edition ADRs came into effect on 1 January 1969 and were selectively applied under state/territory law. They only applied to vehicles manufactured from 1 January 1969 onwards. We are currently on the Third Edition.

 

As an example, I was going to restore a Series II Land Rover which saw a production run from 1958 to 1961. The major passive safety item that it did not need was seatbelts. The Series IIA was in production from 1961 to 1971, so anyone of those built before 31 December 1968 does not need to comply. 

 

You have to be careful if you are going to build a hot rod based on a pre-WWII vehicle. You can buy a newly manufactured chassis, but you cannot get it registered for road use (unlimited???) because the whole vehicle needs to comply with the current ADRs. If you want to do whatever you like in making your hot rod, you need to get an original chassis with its original chassis number clearly visible.

[facthunter]

Low quantity  production vehicles get concessions. Very few of them would comply with crumple zone or roll cage requirements or braking standards..Firms who act as agents for these vehicles will help you and If your choice is a popular one it will be covered already most likely by the data on file.. Making a tapered axle to high performance specs is relatively simple these days and using an all alloy diffcentre  or gearbox bell housing for weight saving or a bigger dia tailshaft is very common "everyday" thing..  Nev

 

 

[spenaroo]

51 minutes ago, old man emu said:

The only way to get around the ADRs is to buy a vehicle that was produced prior to the introduction of ADRs. When a vehicle is first used on an Australian road, the relevant state or territory government legislation generally requires that it complies with the relevant ADRs as at the time of manufacture. The First Edition ADRs were only distributed for discussion and were not adopted as a legally binding set of standards under either national or state/territory law. The Second Edition ADRs came into effect on 1 January 1969 and were selectively applied under state/territory law. They only applied to vehicles manufactured from 1 January 1969 onwards. We are currently on the Third Edition.

 

As an example, I was going to restore a Series II Land Rover which saw a production run from 1958 to 1961. The major passive safety item that it did not need was seatbelts. The Series IIA was in production from 1961 to 1971, so anyone of those built before 31 December 1968 does not need to comply. 

 

You have to be careful if you are going to build a hot rod based on a pre-WWII vehicle. You can buy a newly manufactured chassis, but you cannot get it registered for road use (unlimited???) because the whole vehicle needs to comply with the current ADRs. If you want to do whatever you like in making your hot rod, you need to get an original chassis with its original chassis number clearly visible.

oh the fun of chassis.

 

remember a statutory write off and a repairable write off are two very different classifications.

and any new replacement frame will be manufactured with the same VIN number.

 

i had at least once a month for the 5 years I worked at Harley-Davidson,

some guy would come in off the street having just bought a bike at the salvage auction come in wanting to order a frame.

and not understand the need for his VIN details with the order.

"No, I want a new frame with a new VIN"

[facthunter]

Some after market frames have an ID number stamped on them by the manufacturer. Some manufacturers NEVER had a frame number on SOME models. State police Here in OZ often require a number they have issued specifically in respect of YOUR bike to be stamped on the frame where they tell you to. Where I've had to comply with this procedure the Number is VxxxxxP.   (VIctoria Police). Some HARLEY WLA's were not numbered on the frame.  Nev

[spenaroo]

yeah, we had a few bikes come in pre- 17 digit vin.

always fun with the paperwork.

[old man emu]

WLAs frames were never numbered by the factory. They were only ever recorded by the engine number, and that caused problems with crankcases that were shipped unnumbered as spare parts. It leads to some weird fonts being used for the number. There is a manufacturing number on the underside of each crankcase half which must match to indicate the crankcase halves are a pair.

 

On the other hand, the Indian 741 - the WWII Scout has both an engine and frame number.

 

My WLA has a registered chassis number that must have been issued by the Queensland Motor Registry. It is not in the form QxxxxxxxP. Back in the day, in NSW, when the motor registry inspected a car for rego and the chassis or engine number were damaged, they would send the car to the police Crime Scene to have the pad where the number should be stamped examined to see if there was an earlier number (stolen vehicle check). If an old number could not be found, then the car would go back to the registry and they would give it a number in the form NxxxxxP and register the car.

[spenaroo]

yep interestingly i have seen a vin crossed out and a new one punched underneath.

 

one of our mechanics rebuilt bikes as a hobby and he found a crashed special edition dyna that was a stat write-off but still worth salvaging.

so he repaired it and registered it as an ICV, like a chopper/kit car. and got a new vin number issued. - only bothered with the process as it was his personal bike he wanted to keep long term

[facthunter]

It does make them somewhat easier to trace if they are nicked, which used to be far too common with HD's, especially the Knuckle heads.  Nev